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Canine Information & Articles - Continental Kennel Club
Training in Increments
by Joe R. Lock, President, Suncoast Retriever/Bird Dog Association
When training a bird dog for a particular task, or any dog for any task for that matter, the trainer should first set a long term goal. For example, if the trainer wants a finished retriever that will do multiple long distance retrieves, then he (or she) does not start a four month old dog on doubles before he has mastered singles. That's only common sense, and it is an extreme example.
However, all trainers should know the small step increments that lead to the ultimate goal of having a finished dog. It is of primary importance in the training of any retriever that the dog be whistle trained. The goal is to make the dog sit to a whistle at any distance, maybe 50 yards or more. The trainer must first train the dog to sit to a whistle at heal. The dog should already sit to the "sit" command. When walking on a leash at heal, the dog may also automatically sit whenever the handler stops, if he has been trained to do so. T
his is all good, and now it's time to add a new element. Immediately after the sit command, blow one loud quick whistle blast. Repeat this exercise for several minutes a day, everyday, for about seven days. Then eliminate the sit command altogether and just blow the whistle, and the dog should sit. Reinforce this training for another seven days before going on to the next increment. Your goal is now to have your retriever sitting at a distance on one whistle blast. The retriever should be facing you in anticipation of a retrieve, whether it is a blind retrieve, single, double, or triple retrieve.
To do this, first sit your dog and walk away. If he does not sit immediately, take him back to the original place and sit him again with the whistle blast only. It is important that you do not use the verbal sit command at this point; use only the whistle, and walk away again. If he does not remain at sit, then once again, take him back to the original place and sit him with one whistle blast. Continue doing this until he remains at sit as you walk away. You can gradually increase the distance of your walk before stopping.You are now ready for the next increment. With the dog at sit, walk about 30 feet away from him, and call him to you. When he is about half way, blow the sit whistle. If he does not sit at the whistle (and he probably won't), take him back to the spot where you blew the sit whistle, and make him sit to the whistle command. Repeat this step until he sits to the whistle, when he is several feet from you.
Gradually increase the distance. Now, when your upland hunting retriever is working in the field, test out the sit whistle every now and then. When he is some distance from you quartering and looking for birds, hit the sit whistle, and he should sit.By adding this next increment, you will give the dog a reason to sit on the whistle command. As he sits on the whistle (and most dogs will naturally turn and face you as they sit) throw a bumper. The dog should be steady from past retriever training and should not break. If he does break, don't worry about it now. We will work on that later. He should sit and mark the bumper. After it falls, throw your arm toward it and yell the dog's name. He should retrieve the bumper.
By using these small increments of training, you should have a retriever that will sit at virtually any distance on one whistle blast. This skill is invaluable in directing a retriever to a blind retrieve, and it gives you one more aspect of control.Make sure you always praise your dog for his successes, and don't get discouraged when he fails. Constant repetition is the key, and small incremental training steps add up to the whole finished retriever. Later, we will add more whistle commands and will introduce hand signals.
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