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Why do we sleep?
Q. Is sleep primarily to benefit the body or the mind?
By C. CLAIBORNE RAY
Published: August 15, 2006, New York Times
A. “Sleep has many functions, and most of us think the main functions are not for the body but for the brain,” said Dr. Arthur Spielman, a sleep expert at NewYork-Presbyterian/Weill Cornell hospital and City College of New York.
“But,” he added, “you are talking to a brain scientist, and it depends on whom you ask.’’
The reason sleep occurs in the first place is tied to both mental and physiological cycles that evolved on a planet with a 24-hour cycle of light and dark, Dr. Spielman said.
The internal biological clocks that developed in living things, from single cells to humans, allow them to anticipate the transitions from light to dark and from dark to light, so that they are ready for the functions appropriate to light, like metabolism and photosynthesis, and for those suited to darkness.
“A physiologist might say sleep was to avoid wasting metabolic energy in the dark,’’ he said. “But a brain scientist would say that glycogen, the only fuel for the brain, is depleted during waking and restored during sleep.”
Sleep is useful for restoring particular parts of the brain that are quiet during sleep and return to functioning during waking, like the areas involved in attention, alertness and memory.
Sleep is also important for regulating the timing of hormones under the control of the brain, Dr. Spielman said, like cortisol, the stress-response hormone, which is suppressed at the beginning of sleep and ramps up in anticipation of waking, and growth hormone, which is secreted at night during sleep characterized by slow brain waves.
By C. CLAIBORNE RAY
Published: August 15, 2006, New York Times
A. “Sleep has many functions, and most of us think the main functions are not for the body but for the brain,” said Dr. Arthur Spielman, a sleep expert at NewYork-Presbyterian/Weill Cornell hospital and City College of New York.
“But,” he added, “you are talking to a brain scientist, and it depends on whom you ask.’’
The reason sleep occurs in the first place is tied to both mental and physiological cycles that evolved on a planet with a 24-hour cycle of light and dark, Dr. Spielman said.
The internal biological clocks that developed in living things, from single cells to humans, allow them to anticipate the transitions from light to dark and from dark to light, so that they are ready for the functions appropriate to light, like metabolism and photosynthesis, and for those suited to darkness.
“A physiologist might say sleep was to avoid wasting metabolic energy in the dark,’’ he said. “But a brain scientist would say that glycogen, the only fuel for the brain, is depleted during waking and restored during sleep.”
Sleep is useful for restoring particular parts of the brain that are quiet during sleep and return to functioning during waking, like the areas involved in attention, alertness and memory.
Sleep is also important for regulating the timing of hormones under the control of the brain, Dr. Spielman said, like cortisol, the stress-response hormone, which is suppressed at the beginning of sleep and ramps up in anticipation of waking, and growth hormone, which is secreted at night during sleep characterized by slow brain waves.
Labels: Dog Beds
Sunday, August 06, 2006
Dog eating stool?
Is your dog eating stool? This is called Coprophagia, the practice of eating stool (feces).
There is nothing more disgusting to a dog owner than seeing their dog eat its own or another dog's stool, and then to have the dog saunter up, tail wagging, looking for a kiss and a few kind words.
"Why on earth would dogs do such a repulsive thing?" an owner might ask. What on earth is the attraction in this behavior? We may never know for sure but we do have an inkling about what initiates the behavior and can surmise how and why it continues.
The Facts About Coprophagia:
Coprophagia is not an abnormal behavior for canines in certain situations. Bitches naturally consume their own pup's feces presumably, to keep the nest clean. This behavior provides a survival benefit as it prevents unhygienic conditions from developing in the nest; a state of affairs that could lead to disease. The biological drive to eat feces, which is implanted as a survival instinct, compels nursing bitches to ingest their pups' feces.
In addition, many puppies go through an oral stage in which they explore everything with their mouths, sometimes ingesting a variety of non-food items, including feces.
As time goes by, the majority of pups eventually learn that food tastes better than feces and they swear off the stool-eating habit for the rest of their lives. Some older puppies may continue to eat feces for a few months, but most grow out of the habit after the first year.
Barring nursing bitches, the majority of "normal" adult dogs have absolutely no interest in eating feces.
When Coprophagia is a Problem:
Slow learners, "oral retentives", and pups in which habits are easily ingrained may continue to engage in coprophagia well beyond the accepted norm and may engage in it to excess. Such hard-core coprophagics continue the behavior long after their peers have developed new interests. Dogs like this, that seem addicted to the habit, may best be described as compulsive.
Below is a list of possible contributing factors though more than one may be operating in any one case.
There is nothing more disgusting to a dog owner than seeing their dog eat its own or another dog's stool, and then to have the dog saunter up, tail wagging, looking for a kiss and a few kind words.
"Why on earth would dogs do such a repulsive thing?" an owner might ask. What on earth is the attraction in this behavior? We may never know for sure but we do have an inkling about what initiates the behavior and can surmise how and why it continues.
The Facts About Coprophagia:
Coprophagia is not an abnormal behavior for canines in certain situations. Bitches naturally consume their own pup's feces presumably, to keep the nest clean. This behavior provides a survival benefit as it prevents unhygienic conditions from developing in the nest; a state of affairs that could lead to disease. The biological drive to eat feces, which is implanted as a survival instinct, compels nursing bitches to ingest their pups' feces.
In addition, many puppies go through an oral stage in which they explore everything with their mouths, sometimes ingesting a variety of non-food items, including feces.
As time goes by, the majority of pups eventually learn that food tastes better than feces and they swear off the stool-eating habit for the rest of their lives. Some older puppies may continue to eat feces for a few months, but most grow out of the habit after the first year.
Barring nursing bitches, the majority of "normal" adult dogs have absolutely no interest in eating feces.
When Coprophagia is a Problem:
Slow learners, "oral retentives", and pups in which habits are easily ingrained may continue to engage in coprophagia well beyond the accepted norm and may engage in it to excess. Such hard-core coprophagics continue the behavior long after their peers have developed new interests. Dogs like this, that seem addicted to the habit, may best be described as compulsive.
Below is a list of possible contributing factors though more than one may be operating in any one case.
- The opportunity to observe the dam eating stool
- High protein, low residue, puppy food
- Food that contains no live enzymes or natural bacteria (Raw diet additions)
- Irregular feeding schedule
- Food that contains too much grain and preservatives
- Feeding inadequate amounts of food
- Under-stimulating environment
- Constant opportunity to ingest feces
- Inadequate attention/supervision
Veterinary Care:
(1) Diagnosis:
Whether by nature, nurture, or a combination of factors, coprophagy rears its ugly head as a persistent and irritating habit that some long-suffering dog owners seem fated to endure. There are several different forms of coprophagy but, whatever form it takes, there are probably similar drives and predilections operating.
Variations on the theme include:
- Dogs that are partial only to their own stool
- Dogs that eat only other dog's stool
- Dogs that eat stool only in the winter if it is frozen solid (poopsicles)
- Dogs that eat only the stool of various other species, often cats
(2) Therapy:
There are some "home" remedies that have been practiced.
Here are a few:
- Adding more fresh fruits & vegetables to the diet - blend these in the blender (dogs cannot chew, their jaws move up & down, resulting in a pulling & tearing action). Blending helps the dog receive the most benefit from ingesting veggies and fruits.
- Adding crushed mint to the diet or as a treat.
- "Doctoring" each stool with Tabasco® in the hopes of discouraging the dog from the habit. *This coudiarrhea potential dirrehea & one should not do this and leave the dog unsupervised.
The following strategies have met with more success, though it is important to note that results vary:
- Picking up ALL available stools (i.e. denying access).
- Escorting the dog into a picked up area and walking him back inside the house immediately after he has successfully passed a bowel movement and before he even has a chance to investigate the fruits of his labor.
- Some dogs try to circumvent their owner's control by eating the stool as it emerges and for these incorrigible few a muzzle may be necessary.
- Changing the dog's feeding schedule so that high fiber rations are fed frequently.
- Lifestyle enrichment is also helpful. Make sure your dog has plenty of exercise and spends plenty of quality time with you each day. Some dogs respond when a "get a job" program is implemented. Such a program is designed to encourage the dog to exercise his natural tendencies by means of activities like chasing, fetching, walking, pseudo-hunting, fly ball, agility training, etc.
- Teach the "LEAVE IT" command.
Although some of the above measures have occasionally been found effective on their own, it best to apply a whole program of prevention for at least six months to nip the behavior in the bud. If during this time, if the dog gets access to stool and ingests it, some ground will be lost. Hopefully, though, progress will eventually be made, even if it's one step back for every two forward.
Despite all these modifications in environment and training, some dogs persist in the habit of coprophagia. For these dogs, the compulsive disorder diagnosis may be worth considering.
Although controversial, the obsessive-compulsive disorder diagnosis seems to fill the bill, on occasion at least, and it meets a couple of the scientific criteria for diagnosis.
- Face validity: The dog appears obsessed with eating stool and compelled to ingest it.
- Predictive validity: Extreme, refractory, coprophagy should follow a genetic predilection, occurring more frequently in anxious breeds of dog. The latter appears to be true, as the condition seems to be more common in certain breeds (e.g. retrievers). Also, the condition should, and often does, respond to therapy with anti-obsessional drugs.
Home Care: In the majority of cases, coprophagy can be successfully treated at home by means of a combination of management changes (exercise, diet, and supervised outdoor excursions) and environmental measures, but be wary of the occasional medical condition that masquerades the same way (your vet can help rule out such conditions).
Labels: BARF Raw Pet Food, Dog Diet, Dog Nutrition
Friday, August 04, 2006
Consider these items before your board your dog:
Here is a checklist of 10 important steps to consider before boarding your dog.
Consideration of each of these items will help you and your dog to have a good boarding experience.
1. Interview - Interview the kennel on the phone. Find out how long they have been in business and ask for references. Use those references. Make a surprise visit or tour the facility before you schedule the boarding. Notice the place is clean, smells, check out where the dogs are boarded, where they are walked and if they seem….happy. Do any dogs have messes in their cages?
2. Look for Recommendations - Talk to a few kennels before you decide where to take your pet. Also, ask your friends or neighbors where they have boarded their pet and what their experiences have been. Recommendations go along way. Don’t go for the cheapest place. Go for the best place.
3. Determine Kennel Requirements - Does your pet need any special vaccines for this kennel? If so, what and when? Do they need a copy of the vaccine record? Can you supply your own food and treats? Can you leave any toys or his favorite blanket? Can you leave your pets leash, collar or harness?
4. Check out Kennel Staff - Find out about the consistency with the staff – is it the same person seeing your dog everyday or someone new? It is someone who knows about pets or a high school student shoveling food into the cages? Does the staff appear competent and do they look like they enjoy working with the dogs?
5. What is the Dog’s Schedule? - How often do they go out? Where are they walked? For how long? Is that enough to make your pet happy? Will you dog interact with other dogs? Is that what you want?
6. Feeding Instructions - Consider taking your dogs own food and request that they kennel only feed his food. Many pets are fed other foods and treats and can develop gastrointestinal upset such as vomiting and or diarrhea. Your pet is already in a new environment which is most likely a bit stressful; so don’t change anything you don’t have to.
7. Contact Information - Ensure that the kennel has your numbers where you can be reached in the case of an emergency. Include your cell phone and any emergency contacts. Plan for the unexpected.
8. Emergency Instructions - Just in case of an emergency, leave instructions on how to proceed. During emergency hours, the kennel may use a certain veterinarian or emergency hospital. During the day, if you want your pet to go to your regular veterinarian – leave your vets name and phone number. Leave instructions on what you do and don’t want and a contact number or credit card number for emergency medical care. If you are not available by phone, make sure they have the authorization to make charges if care is required. You don’t want your pet “waiting” for medical care because of lack of credit card authorization.
9. Medical History - Obtain a copy of your pets pertinent medical record from your vet and give a copy to the kennel. Ideally, this record should include any medications, diagnosed conditions and problems . Include any behavioral quirks e.g. aggressive to other dogs or if he hates cats. Leave information about his tag and microchip numbers.
10. Leave Special Instructions - Make sure you clearly indicate any special instructions. For example, if you pet requires medications, ensure the name of the medication, dose (both in mg and number of pills, and frequency are clearly indicated. Also communicate any special foods or dietary restrictions. Keep the instructions simple with a contact number to call in the case of questions.
Consideration of each of these items will help you and your dog to have a good boarding experience.
1. Interview - Interview the kennel on the phone. Find out how long they have been in business and ask for references. Use those references. Make a surprise visit or tour the facility before you schedule the boarding. Notice the place is clean, smells, check out where the dogs are boarded, where they are walked and if they seem….happy. Do any dogs have messes in their cages?
2. Look for Recommendations - Talk to a few kennels before you decide where to take your pet. Also, ask your friends or neighbors where they have boarded their pet and what their experiences have been. Recommendations go along way. Don’t go for the cheapest place. Go for the best place.
3. Determine Kennel Requirements - Does your pet need any special vaccines for this kennel? If so, what and when? Do they need a copy of the vaccine record? Can you supply your own food and treats? Can you leave any toys or his favorite blanket? Can you leave your pets leash, collar or harness?
4. Check out Kennel Staff - Find out about the consistency with the staff – is it the same person seeing your dog everyday or someone new? It is someone who knows about pets or a high school student shoveling food into the cages? Does the staff appear competent and do they look like they enjoy working with the dogs?
5. What is the Dog’s Schedule? - How often do they go out? Where are they walked? For how long? Is that enough to make your pet happy? Will you dog interact with other dogs? Is that what you want?
6. Feeding Instructions - Consider taking your dogs own food and request that they kennel only feed his food. Many pets are fed other foods and treats and can develop gastrointestinal upset such as vomiting and or diarrhea. Your pet is already in a new environment which is most likely a bit stressful; so don’t change anything you don’t have to.
7. Contact Information - Ensure that the kennel has your numbers where you can be reached in the case of an emergency. Include your cell phone and any emergency contacts. Plan for the unexpected.
8. Emergency Instructions - Just in case of an emergency, leave instructions on how to proceed. During emergency hours, the kennel may use a certain veterinarian or emergency hospital. During the day, if you want your pet to go to your regular veterinarian – leave your vets name and phone number. Leave instructions on what you do and don’t want and a contact number or credit card number for emergency medical care. If you are not available by phone, make sure they have the authorization to make charges if care is required. You don’t want your pet “waiting” for medical care because of lack of credit card authorization.
9. Medical History - Obtain a copy of your pets pertinent medical record from your vet and give a copy to the kennel. Ideally, this record should include any medications, diagnosed conditions and problems . Include any behavioral quirks e.g. aggressive to other dogs or if he hates cats. Leave information about his tag and microchip numbers.
10. Leave Special Instructions - Make sure you clearly indicate any special instructions. For example, if you pet requires medications, ensure the name of the medication, dose (both in mg and number of pills, and frequency are clearly indicated. Also communicate any special foods or dietary restrictions. Keep the instructions simple with a contact number to call in the case of questions.
Wednesday, August 02, 2006
Environmentally safe cat litter liners!
Cat waste should not be composted, as its composition can be quite toxic.
Cat waste should always be scooped from the litter box and flushed down the toilet. There are a number of new biodegradable cat litters on the market, which makes the “flushing process” easier on your plumbing and safer for the environment. Using these biodegradable cat pan liners to dispose of the remaining biodegradable litter makes good environmental sense.
Biodegradable cat pan liners are non-allergenic. Cats can be allergic to plastic and other known allergens. Allergies usually build up over time from constant contact with the allergen. Calicos, Tortiseshells, Black cats and Siamese cats are more prone to allergies than other breeds.
If you suspect your cat has an allergy (red, itchy rashes), consult your veterinarian to determine the source. It is best to use hard-fired ceramic bowls, instead of molded plastic, for serving your cat food. Using a biodegradable cat litter may protect your cat from certain chemicals. Using non-allergenic liners is an environmentally safe way to further protect your pet.
Tuesday, August 01, 2006
First Aid suggestions for Dogs
Source: AKC - Public Education, Emergency
Restrain or muzzle the dog to keep him from panicking and struggling against you. You can make a muzzle out of panty hose, a cotton bandage, a necktie, or any sturdy piece of fabric about two feet long. Tie a loose knot in the middle, leaving a large loop. Slip the loop over the dog's nose and tighten gently but firmly about halfway up the nose. Bring the ends down and knot under the dog's chin, then bring the ends behind the back and tie again.
Transport an injured dog carefully to avoid causing further injury, so transport requires care. Place the dog on a piece of plywood or other hard surface to move him. Small dogs should be placed in a box. Towles or blankets can also be used as stretchers.
Artificial respiration must be performed when the dog is unable to breathe. The dog's mouth should be checked and cleared of any obstructions, including mucus or blood. Hold the mouth closed, inhale, completely cover the dog's nose with your mouth, and gently breathe out. Do not blow hard. Repeat every five to six seconds.Heart massage (CPR) can be used in combination with artificial respiration when the dog's heart has stopped beating. Lay the dog on his side, place hands over the heart area, and press firmly about 70 times per minute. For small dogs, place one hand on each side of the chest near the elbow. Press gently to avoid breaking the dog's ribs.
External Bleeding should be staunched by applying gentle pressure from a cloth, bandages, or your own hand if necessary. Don't worry about cleaning out the wound until the bleeding has stopped. Take the dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible. Antibiotics may be needed to stave off infection.Internal bleeding, from a fall or from being hit by a car or other heavy object, can be more dangerous. The dog may show these signs: painful or swollen abdomen, pale gums, blood in vomit, urine, stools, saliva, or nose discharge.
Internal hemorrhage is extremely serious and should be tended to by a veterinarian without delay.Shock occurs when the heart and blood vessels shut down. It can result from disease or injury. The signs are depressions, rapid, weak heartbeat, dilated pupils, low temperature, and muscle weakness. Respond at once by keeping the animal warm and quiet, treating any visible injuries, and taking him to the veterinarian.Fractures require immediate attention. Dogs will hold a fractured or dislocated limb in an unnatural position; sometimes a broken bone is visible through the skin. The dog should be transported to the veterinarian with as little movement as possible.
Heatstroke may occur when dogs are left in cars on hot, or even warm, days; when kennel areas do not have proper ventilation; or when dogs are overexercised on hot days. The signs are rapid breathing, rapid heartbeat, high body temperature (above 104 degrees Fahrenheit), and collapse.Dogs suffering from heatstroke must be cooled down as quickly as possible. Spray him with cool water, place ice around the belly, head, and neck. Stop cooling when the dog's temperature reaches 103 degrees Fahrenheit. Call your veterinarian after administering the first aid, or better yet, have someone else call while you're treating your dog.Vomiting and diarrhea are usually signs of problems with the digestive system, and could be caused by any number of things, from the ordinary (spicy food) to the dangerous (poison).
Dehydration from vomiting or diarrhea can be fatal. Make sure the dog has plenty of water. If neither condition seems severe, feed the dog a bland diet of plain cooked chicken and rice for 12 hours. If the condition does not improve after 12 hours, call the veterinarian.Seizures cause a dog to losee control of his muscles. He may fall on his side and seem to paddle the air. Surround the dog with a blanket so he won't hurt himself, but don't try to handle him; he may bite in a reflexive action. Call your veterinarian.
Multiple stings can cause more damage, and may be life-threatening. If you see your dog disturb a hive or swarm of wasps or bees, call the dog to you and run, or, if necessary, pick up your dog and carry it away. Try to put distance between your dog and the swarm as quickly as possible. Once you and the dog are safe, get medical attention as soon as possible.
If possible, give antihistamines to your dog right away (Your veterinarian can give you a supply for your dog's first aid kit, and advise you on dosage and administration). Then take your dog to the closest veterinarian. Treatment for massive stings usually involves intravenous catheterization, the administration of fluids, giving of corticosteroids and monitoring of vital signs. The goal of treatment is to prevent shock and circulatory collapse and to minimize damage to organ systems.
Restrain or muzzle the dog to keep him from panicking and struggling against you. You can make a muzzle out of panty hose, a cotton bandage, a necktie, or any sturdy piece of fabric about two feet long. Tie a loose knot in the middle, leaving a large loop. Slip the loop over the dog's nose and tighten gently but firmly about halfway up the nose. Bring the ends down and knot under the dog's chin, then bring the ends behind the back and tie again.
Transport an injured dog carefully to avoid causing further injury, so transport requires care. Place the dog on a piece of plywood or other hard surface to move him. Small dogs should be placed in a box. Towles or blankets can also be used as stretchers.
Artificial respiration must be performed when the dog is unable to breathe. The dog's mouth should be checked and cleared of any obstructions, including mucus or blood. Hold the mouth closed, inhale, completely cover the dog's nose with your mouth, and gently breathe out. Do not blow hard. Repeat every five to six seconds.Heart massage (CPR) can be used in combination with artificial respiration when the dog's heart has stopped beating. Lay the dog on his side, place hands over the heart area, and press firmly about 70 times per minute. For small dogs, place one hand on each side of the chest near the elbow. Press gently to avoid breaking the dog's ribs.
External Bleeding should be staunched by applying gentle pressure from a cloth, bandages, or your own hand if necessary. Don't worry about cleaning out the wound until the bleeding has stopped. Take the dog to the veterinarian as quickly as possible. Antibiotics may be needed to stave off infection.Internal bleeding, from a fall or from being hit by a car or other heavy object, can be more dangerous. The dog may show these signs: painful or swollen abdomen, pale gums, blood in vomit, urine, stools, saliva, or nose discharge.
Internal hemorrhage is extremely serious and should be tended to by a veterinarian without delay.Shock occurs when the heart and blood vessels shut down. It can result from disease or injury. The signs are depressions, rapid, weak heartbeat, dilated pupils, low temperature, and muscle weakness. Respond at once by keeping the animal warm and quiet, treating any visible injuries, and taking him to the veterinarian.Fractures require immediate attention. Dogs will hold a fractured or dislocated limb in an unnatural position; sometimes a broken bone is visible through the skin. The dog should be transported to the veterinarian with as little movement as possible.
Heatstroke may occur when dogs are left in cars on hot, or even warm, days; when kennel areas do not have proper ventilation; or when dogs are overexercised on hot days. The signs are rapid breathing, rapid heartbeat, high body temperature (above 104 degrees Fahrenheit), and collapse.Dogs suffering from heatstroke must be cooled down as quickly as possible. Spray him with cool water, place ice around the belly, head, and neck. Stop cooling when the dog's temperature reaches 103 degrees Fahrenheit. Call your veterinarian after administering the first aid, or better yet, have someone else call while you're treating your dog.Vomiting and diarrhea are usually signs of problems with the digestive system, and could be caused by any number of things, from the ordinary (spicy food) to the dangerous (poison).
Dehydration from vomiting or diarrhea can be fatal. Make sure the dog has plenty of water. If neither condition seems severe, feed the dog a bland diet of plain cooked chicken and rice for 12 hours. If the condition does not improve after 12 hours, call the veterinarian.Seizures cause a dog to losee control of his muscles. He may fall on his side and seem to paddle the air. Surround the dog with a blanket so he won't hurt himself, but don't try to handle him; he may bite in a reflexive action. Call your veterinarian.
Bee and Wasp Stings can be painful and frightening for a dog. Follow these procedures if your dog is stung:
- Carefully remove the stinger with tweezers, if possible. (Only bees leave stingers.)
- Make a paste of baking soda and water and apply to the area.
- Apply an ice pack to relieve swelling and pain.
- Comfort the dog until the pain has diminished.
Multiple stings can cause more damage, and may be life-threatening. If you see your dog disturb a hive or swarm of wasps or bees, call the dog to you and run, or, if necessary, pick up your dog and carry it away. Try to put distance between your dog and the swarm as quickly as possible. Once you and the dog are safe, get medical attention as soon as possible.
If possible, give antihistamines to your dog right away (Your veterinarian can give you a supply for your dog's first aid kit, and advise you on dosage and administration). Then take your dog to the closest veterinarian. Treatment for massive stings usually involves intravenous catheterization, the administration of fluids, giving of corticosteroids and monitoring of vital signs. The goal of treatment is to prevent shock and circulatory collapse and to minimize damage to organ systems.
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