The Dog Bowl Pet Supply and BARF Raw Food Blog

Kendra D. from Houston TX writes: "I started on BARF diet for two reasons, firstly because I was concerned at the young age my dogs were losing teeth or they required Veterinary attention, and secondly was the death of our beautiful German Shepherd, Zarra, due to anal cancer. When Zarra was sick I consulted Sandra U. an animal natural therapist, as what our Vet was prescribing was no longer helping her. Sandra tried to convince me at that time not to feed her, or any of my dogs the expensive premium food I was then feeding and switch to a raw meat and vegetable diet. I did not listen and although through the remedies she supplied for Zarra she gained an extra 8 months of good quality life, we ultimately had to have her put to sleep in December 1998. In February 1999 I made the switch to BARF and have been feeding it ever since."

Question:
I have noticed recently that my dog’s pads are peeling and look red and raw. What could be causing this?

Answer:
We had a client recently who came in to The Dog Bowl with this problem. After asking the obvious questions like, “Are you running marathons with your dog?”, we started asking about the dog’s daily life. Turns out, the client cleans her floors with a strong detergent and has not been thinking twice about letting her dog walk on them while they are still wet. The detergent was either causing a reaction in her dog’s paws or simply eating away at the pads. Keep in mind that animals (dogs, cats, rabbits etc) are particularly sensitive to chemicals used at home like pesticides, cleaning products, home fragrances. It is up to you to protect them!

The Dog Bowl carries paw care balms that may help soothe paw irritation & peeling. Give them relief with our chemical free grapeseed and green tea moisturizing and conditioning balm - this is one of our favorites (click here).

When you catch your puppy chewing on something inappropriate, you should re-direct his attention to a toy that is his.


When he gives up the "illegal" chew-item, praise him profusely, and give him the appropriate chew-toy.

Teething puppies need to chew, and this usually means on anything they can reach. It is important to supervise your pup at all times, as they can ingest items that are harmful. Also it is wise to contain your pup in a crate if you have to leave him.

An item that works well to stop the chewing, and is sold in grocery stores, is simply lemon juice. (Add it to an empty spray bottle.) Most dogs and puppies don't like the taste, so they will not chew what has been sprayed. From personal experience I can tell you that it potentially might harm the finish on some wood furniture & silks, but it does not have a strong smell & works very well for deterring the chewing on shoes, bedding, etc.

Rabies is a disease caused by a virus that can affect the central nervous system (brain and spinal cord) of any kind of mammal, including humans.

Animals that are infected with rabies can spread the disease through their saliva or brain matter. People may be exposed to rabies when bitten by an infected wild or domestic animal. Because of widespread animal vaccination programs, people in North America rarely get rabies; it is more common in developing nations.

What causes rabies?

Rabies is caused by a virus that is usually spread through contact with an infected animal's saliva. In the United States, the rabies virus is found almost exclusively in wildlife. Bats, raccoons, skunks, foxes, and coyotes are the most common hosts of rabies. The animals most likely to be affected can vary by region, although bats are becoming a primary source of infection among humans in many areas of the U.S. and Canada.1

Report all animal bites, especially those from wildlife, to your local health department. They can tell you which species pose a threat for rabies in your area. This will help determine the need for preventive treatment.

Occasionally, the rabies virus can spread to pets, such as dogs, cats, and domestic ferrets. However, household pets rarely get rabies, due to successful vaccination programs. A pet that always stays indoors is highly unlikely to be exposed to the virus.

In extremely rare situations, a person can get rabies without being bitten by a rabid animal (nonbite exposure). Humans have acquired rabies by handling a rabid animal or by inhaling airborne virus in places where it exists in high quantities, such as caves filled with bats.

What are the symptoms?

Signs of rabies in animals may include having excessive saliva or sometimes foaming at the mouth, paralysis, or behavioral changes in your pet (such as shyness when the pet was friendly) or no fear of humans in a wild animal.

Rabies infection in humans begins with vague symptoms such as fever, cough, or sore throat followed in several days by more serious and rapidly progressing symptoms such as restlessness, hallucinations, and seizures. The final stage is coma and death.

The incubation period—the time from exposure to the rabies virus until symptoms appear—is usually 4 to 6 weeks. In rare cases, the incubation period can last from several days to more than a year after exposure to the virus.

If you are concerned that you may have been exposed to the rabies virus, it is important to seek medical attention before symptoms develop. Rabies is nearly always fatal if not treated before the appearance of symptoms.

How is rabies diagnosed? Rabies in humans can be difficult to diagnose.

Tests that can help include:

• Direct fluorescent antibody (DFA) test. This common, rapid test detects the rabies virus protein. DFA testing is done by taking a sample of tissue from the potentially affected area.
• Polymerase chain reaction (PCR) assay. This test detects the genetic material (DNA) of the rabies virus proteins. PCR testing is very accurate and can be done on saliva, cerebrospinal fluid, or tissue.

Diagnosis in animals also is difficult. Animals that display abnormal behavior often are assumed to be rabid. The risk that an animal is infected with the rabies virus is based on:

• The type of animal. Some animals are more likely to carry rabies than others. Bats, skunks, raccoons, foxes, and coyotes are common carriers of the rabies virus.
• The behavior of the animal, such as excessive drooling or aggression.
• Risk for rabies in a specific geographic area. For more information, contact your local health department.
• The date of the animal's last rabies vaccination.

Can rabies be treated?

Once rabies symptoms appear, the disease progresses rapidly, and there is no cure. If medical treatment is provided before symptoms develop, the virus almost always is eliminated before it can cause serious damage. Medical treatment for rabies includes:

• Thorough cleansing of the area of exposure (bite, scratch, or open sore).
• Postexposure vaccinations.

Any animal bite or area of exposure should be washed with soap and water immediately. Visit a health professional to find out whether additional care is needed. Your doctor and local health department can help determine your risk of exposure to rabies. Rabies vaccinations will be administered promptly if the risk of exposure to the virus is high.

Haute couture or Chanel chic: designer dog carriers are va-va-voom!

When pampering your lovable dog, he is the one to reap the benefits. Whether it’s an upscale dog bed or designer dog bowl, one thing’s for sure: this pooch is stylin’.

Well, when toting around Toto, this is one adornment both you and he will be able to share: the designer dog carrier. Think of it as a portable purse, one that is functional yet stylish, luxurious yet precious since the contents include your very own pet!

When selecting your designer dog carrier or upgrading from your current one (keep in mind it’s okay to have more than one -- think about frequently women change their assortment of shoes and purses!) the following tips are important not only for style, but for safety as well:

• Comfort. While it’s easy to get caught up in the extensive assortment of designer dog carriers, keep in mind the utmost important safety tip: a soft head rest for your little dog with ample ventilation. And now a word about “little” dogs: if you know in your heart that your dog is a little too big and feisty for a designer dog carrier, please realize a designer dog carrier is not for him. You are not doing your dog any favors if he can’t enjoy the proximity of being carried close to your heart. However, if your dog fits comfortably then you’ll know it’s a right fit.
• Style – leather or canvas? Polka dots or plaid? This one’s all you.
• Lightweight. You’ll want to take the weight of the empty designer dog carrier into account, similar to how you would purchase a leather briefcase or large leather handbag. We recommend going with a designer dog carrier which is comfortable not only to your dog but to you as the carrier.
• Lining. Some top of the line designer dog carriers include plush head openings made of genuine sheepskin fur, thereby resulting in a soft head rest for your little dog.
• Removable padded bottom linings. Simply said, they are key. Not only do they provide additional comfort in the designer dog carrier, they’re also a pleasure for your washing convenience.
• Zippers and convenient compartments. Who doesn’t like zippers?
• Additional options include an elasticized cord inside the bag which can be hooked to the dog’s collar to safely deter him from jumping out of the beautiful designer dog carrier.
• Side windows which open are a benefit when you want to give your first-class dog an A-1 view of the world, but when he needs to go incognito, secure the flap and pretend you’re carrying some fruit or something.

As you cater to your canine’s style, one way to supplement your pampered pet’s style is with a designer dog carrier. At The Dog Bowl, nothing is more important than your pets’ health and well being. For more information about dog carriers see our online inventory

The cat is considered by scientists to be a strict carnivore and the dog is considered to be an omnivore. The difference? The cat cannot sustain life unless it consumes meat. Dogs, however, are able to survive on plant material alone, but do best and by nature are primarily meat-eaters. Far too many dogs have been undernourished by cheap grain-based dog foods. And grain-based cat foods are even worse. Here’s a rundown of the basic metabolic differences, using essential nutrients as an example:

Vitamin A...
Cats – Process little or no enzymes to break down plant-produced carotenoids. Must eat “preformed” active Vitamin A (converted by some other creature such as a mouse or rabbit).
Dogs – Have enzymes in the lining of the intestine that can break down plant carotenoids and convert them into active Vitamin A.

Niacin...
Cats – Can obtain Niacin only by eating the preformed vitamin.
Dogs – Obtain Niacin by converting a dietary amino acid call Tryptophan into Niacin.

Arginine...
Cats – Are extremely sensitive to even a single meal deficient in Arginine and are unable to make their own. Cats need lots of protein, and Arginine is involved in aiding the elimination of the protein waste products.
Dogs - Are much less sensitive to low levels of Arginine and produce enzymes internally that can aid its production.

Taurine...
Cats – Cannot manufacture their own, therefore must eat preformed Taurine.
Dogs – Make their own in their internal chemical factory.

Felinine...
Cats – Have a much higher requirement for SAA than other mammalia and are the only creatures to manufacture the Felinine chemical.
Dogs – Don’t know and don’t care what this stuff is.

Dietary Protein...
Cats – If fed balanced and 100% digestible protein, the cat will use 20% of that protein for growth metabolism and 12% for maintenance. Cats need more protein than dogs.
Dogs – If fed balanced and 100% digestible protein, the dog will use 12% of that protein for growth metabolism and only 4% of that protein for maintenance. Dogs need less protein than cats.

Arachidonic Acid...
Cats – Cannot make their own even in the presence of adequate linoleic acid, because the cat’s liver contains no delta-6-desaturase enzyme to convert linoleic to Arachidonic.
Dogs – Can make their own Arachidonic Acid if they consume enough linoleic acid by eating proper fats.

Fasting and Starvation...
Cats – Do not efficiently mobilize fat reserves and break down non-fatty body tissues for energy. This upsets their internal chemicals and can lead to a very dangerous feline disorder called hepatic lipidosis. Never put a fat cat on a starvation diet.
Dogs – Can tolerate prolonged fasts and utilize fat reserves for energy.

Providing a high-quality, balanced, raw diet for your cat or dog requires effort and investment. But you'd do that for your child, right? The Dog Bowl makes it easy. Check out our inventory of nutrition supplies and supplements, complete lines of frozen, freeze dried, and natural foods for the furriest members of your family. At The Dog Bowl, nothing is more important than your pets’ health. Call us at 713-529-0334 or toll free at 1-877-4RAW-DOG if we can be of assistance.

While you love your dear dog and want him to have the healthiest of diets, it’s important to know which foods to consume and which must be avoided at all costs. In fact, there are specific foods which are toxic to dogs. Whether its grapes or cabbage or extensive table scraps or bread dough be aware of the list below as toxic food for dogs…in other words, what not to feed!

We’ll start with human food. Baby food can contain onion powder, which can be toxic to dogs. In addition, it can result in nutritional deficiencies especially if fed in large amounts. Simply stated, it’s best to avoid since this could be toxic to dogs. That’s why it’s called baby food and not dog food.

Table scraps in large amounts could be classified as toxic food for dogs. Why? Because they’re not nutritionally balanced. They should never be more than 10% of your dog’s diet. Fat should be trimmed from meat and bones should definitely not be fed. Cooked meat and cooked fats are carcinogenic to dogs.

Bones from fish and cooked bones can obstruct the digestive system. Not good!
Chocolate, coffee, tea, and caffeinated drinks are bad. They contain caffeine which could be toxic and impact the heart and nervous systems.

Citrus oil extracts result in vomiting. Stay away!

Grapes and raisins contain unknown toxins which can do damage to the kidneys. Definitely considered toxic food for dogs.

Large amounts of cooked liver cause Vitamin A toxicity, which impacts muscles and bones. Yet another item which is toxic to dogs.

Macadamia nuts, like grapes and raisins, contain unknown toxins.

Spoiled food and garbage – just don’t go there. Definitely considered toxic for dogs.

Mushrooms can result in shock and cause death.

Alcohol can result in coma and death.

Bread dough can result in a bloated belly and then disorientation and vomiting. Since it yeast that hasn’t risen yet, you do not want it to expand in Fido’s belly, much less get stuck in the intestines! This, like the other items on the list, could be toxic to dogs.

Onions and garlic, whether it’s raw, cooked, or powder in large amounts have the ability to damage red blood cells and cause anemia.

As for chemicals, dogs need to be kept away from all antifreeze spills since this could be hazardous and toxic to dogs. While the sweet smell and taste may be attractive to his sensitive nose, if your dog consumes any amount of antifreeze, rush him immediately to the veterinarian. (Check your garage and driveway for spills and clean these up before your pet has a chance to smell and potentially ingest this!)

Xylitol is a sugar-alcohol sweetener contained in chewing gum and candy. Seizures, lethargy and weakness are the result if dogs consume significant amounts of this chemical.

Ibuprofen, like antifreeze, may smell sweet. Dogs will eat it if they’re found lying on the floor and don’t be surprised if your dog tries to chew threw a bottle to eat the entire contents. This is definitely toxic to dogs. It causes ulceration and perforates the lining of the stomach, and decreases the blood flow to the kidneys. Yet again, toxic to dogs.

Imagine being constantly nauseated, heaving on a regular basis after meals, and facing painful constipation on a regular basis. A cat with hairball problems feels just that---terrible. The stress of constant hairballs can lower your pet’s resistance to illness. And, hairballs can become so bad they impact in the intestines and must be removed surgically. Be on the lookout for these symptoms:

• Constipation, or hard stools with hair showing.
• Dry, matted coat
• Frequent dry coughing or hacking, particularly after meals
• Lack of interest in eating.
• Depression or lethargy.

Fortunately, hairballs are easy to prevent. And the number one way is pleasurable to both cat and owner: brushing. The Dog Bowl carries a small shedding blade that removes a surprising amount of loose hair---much more than a regular brush---and is perfectly tailored for cats and small dogs. Other tips include using a lint roller or grooming with wet hands or rubber gloves to pull loose hair out. Just be sure and follow up with a soft brush to remove what you have loosened so you don’t inadvertently worsen the hairball problem.

There are commercial hairball remedies, but it should be noted here that some of these contain petroleum products, which have not been rigorously tested for safe consumption. Some also contain mineral which, taken in quantities, can deplete the body of vitamin A. Some cat owners have had success by giving their cats a half teaspoon of butter two or three times a week.

Others have fed canned pumpkin or baby food squash. Perhaps the best and simplest solution is The Dog Bowl’s Omega 3 & 6 Oil with Salmon & Evening Primrose Oil added for optimum health and a shiny coat.

There are many pet health issues we have no control over. Fortunately this is one we do. So, love that (loose) hair right off of your cat!

The most common source of lead poisoning in pets is the lead-based paint once used on buildings. It flakes into the soil after renovating or demolishing old buildings and pets ingest it by digging or self-grooming after exposure. Household birds can ingest it by pecking walls and, due to their size, are affected quickly and sometimes fatally. But there are other, unexpected sources of lead to be aware of.

Lead can be absorbed when pets (most commonly puppies) chew on lead fishing weights, drapery weights, house keys, lead solder used in household electronic equipment, car batteries, plumbing materials and supplies, lubricating compounds, putty or tar paper, lead foil, golf balls, food packaging, and improperly glazed ceramic food or water bowls. If your pet is kept in the garage, be aware that gasoline exhaust contains lead.

Puppies and kittens may ingest lead by chewing or licking the metal parts on collars. (A large variety of handsome collars with lead-free metal parts can be found at www.thedogbowl.com.)

Lead affects the stability of the red blood cell (RBC) membrane.Young animals have a greater susceptibility to lead because of an increased blood-brain barrier permeability to lead, as well as greater absorption rates.

Signs of lead poisoning in dogs include behavior changes (lethargy, aggression, constant snapping, seizures, hysteria, hiding in dark areas, and depression), frothing at the mouth, anorexia (lack of appetite), weight loss, vomiting, blood in feces, and diarrhea. Signs in cats include anorexia (loss of appetite), vomiting, diarrhea, and seizures. The toxic dose of lead in pets is 10 to 15 mg/kg in a single dose. However, signs of poisoning can occur from low-level chronic poisoning (5 mg/kg body weight per day).

Diagnostic tests include urine testing, complete blood count (CBC), and blood chemistry. The blood test for pets is the same as the one for humans but at about one-fifth the cost.

Radiographs may be required to determine if there is a lead object in the gastrointestinal tract.
Treatment includes removal of the lead source (endoscopy, surgery), decontamination (gastric lavage, enemas, activated charcoal, cathartics), and chelation therapy. (Lead binds to the chelating agents; this allows the lead to be excreted from the body.)

Prognosis depends on the severity of signs and the length of time the signs were present. Thankfully, most animals do not have residual neurological signs after recovery. But the best cure is prevention, so don’t forget to “childproof” your home for your fur-covered kids!

Green Tripe - What is tripe?

Tripe is the edible lining and accompanying content of a ruminant's first or second stomach. Paunch tripe comes from the large first stomach and honeycomb tripe comes from the second. Green tripe means that the tripe has not been cleaned, bleached or scalded. The actual color can be green or almost black in color. It should never be white or almost white. This product has been used in Europe for years by many of the old time breeders.

Are all types of tripe the same? No!

There are 3 types of tripe: Bleached, Cleaned and Green. Green tripe is also referred to as “unbleached” tripe since it has not been altered. Bleached tripe is white in color and has been thoroughly cleansed. Washed tripe is grey in color, had the contents removed, and has only been lightly rinsed and has not been cleaned to the same degree as bleached tripe. Tripe is washed and bleached for the same reasons humans wash and peel potatoes- for appearance and bacterial safety reasons. Green tripe has the contents removed and is not washed at all. It is the most natural form of tripe because it is not altered at all once removed from the carcass.

Which tripe does BARFWorld use?

BARFWorld uses green tripe since it has the most nutritional value. Washed and bleached tripe have been treated or clean and hold significantly less nutritional value. Once the tripe is bleached or scalded, all helpful living enzymes are destroyed. This is why BARFWorld only uses green tripe in our Unbleached Tripe patties and BARF Diet Patties.What are the benefits of green tripe?~ Green tripe retains an attractive odor dogs love. This odor is literally “washed away” unless the tripe is green. Benefits for the dog include noticeably better coats, more luster and shine no more flaky skin, richer color, etc. Other breeders rave about how white the dog’s teeth are and the lack or need for dental attention. Most breeders will comment about their better stools and are impressed with their increased vitality and energy levels. Most breeders agree that green tripe is the perfect food for a canine.

What makes green tripe the perfect ingredient?

There are many nutritional benefits from eating green tripe. It contains a very diverse profile of nutrients including enzymes, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, probiotics, and phytonutrients. Green tripe assists your canine in utilizing their food as well, aiding in the digestion process. It can also be used as an appetite stimulator. In cases where dogs refuse to eat their meal it can aid in stimulating the appetite. Diets that do not contain live enzymes put a greater stress on the pancreas and other organs to help to breakdown food.

Why is green tripe so healthy?

Since tripe is taken from cow’s stomachs, they receive nutrients from grasses and grains that have been already processed naturally by the cow's stomach system. Also present within the tripe are naturally occurring gastric juices, amino acids and live enzymes not found in processed or cooked foods. These gastric juices are excellent cleaners for teeth. Amino acids are necessary for proper muscular development. It is also an excellent source of protein, fiber, fat and delivers equal calcium to phosphorus ratios. Green tripe also contains Lactic Acid bacteria, also known as Lactobacillus Acidophilus which is a good intestinal bacteria and a main ingredient in probiotics. Try BARFWorld’s Unbleached Tripe Patties!

Seven years ago, on my kitty’s first visit to the vet, I was handed a little toothbrush and a sample size of kitty toothpaste and told to regularly brush his teeth. “Right", I thought, "I am to brush this animal’s teeth when just brushing his *coat* turns him into the Tazmanian Devil.” Cleverly, I instead put Tux on a "high-quality, pelleted diet", which I was told would help keep his teeth clean, and didn’t think about it again.

But, recently, I read that chronic gingivitis can compromise a person’s immune system, something to do with the steady load of constantly fighting a low grade infection. I take very good care of myself, but what about my cat? Yesterday, while he was sleeping, I snuck up on an unsuspecting Tux, lifted his lip, and took a closer look. Yep, his breath was foul. And, sure enough, his back teeth were caked with a hard, yellow goo. I managed to pry some off before he was fully awake, but the other side hurt him too much. He growled. His gums bled. I felt terrible--what kind of a monster mom have I been??

I called The Dog Bowl. They described this interesting tooth-brushing substitute called Leba III that you spray in your cat or dog’s mouth once a day. Hey, I can manage that. It apparently dramatically reduces plaque over a period of days. So I picked some up, waited until Tux was good and sleeping---you know, where they are hunting in their dreams---and spritzed his chops. He sat up, surprised, licking his lips. I assured him in a high, flowery, kitty voice that he was a very good boy. Assuming he had performed yet another brilliant feat, he purred and resumed his slumberfied position, unaware that, as he slept, his teeth were being restored to the cleanliness of their youth.

I’ll be writing again to let you know how it goes. From what I read, gingivitis in cats and dogs---same as in humans---can be reversed if it has not gone too far. Hopefully, I have caught it in time. But I sure wish I’d started that first day...